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Old November 17th, 2016, 06:55 PM   #1
sickopsycho
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Hey guys! Just wanted to say I'll be joining you here instead of the pregen threads.

Back in the saddle! Just bought the last of the 250s! A 2012 with 1k miles on it- prestine condition. I have not gone over it with a fine tooth comb yet but have noticed a couple things. First- it rides like a whole nother bike than the 2007! It is SOOO much stiffer. I'm not sure where the adjustment is set to on the rear shock preload- but it's a million times stiffer than the 07. Next- I noticed a couple of screws missing. Nothing terrible- all of the important ones look to be in place- but the screw that holds the inner fairing to the right mirror must have fallen out and the left was loose. Looks like the previous owner didn't check all these for fastness at the recommended interval. Next- there is a strange vibration kind of sound coming from the front. Not sure if this is normal- sounds like loose fairings honestly. Perhaps when I go through I'll find some more missing screws. All of these will be replaced this weekend. Next- this thing is SO quiet. My 2007 came with a 2 brothers straight pipe design, lol. I had to wear ear plugs while riding it was so loud. Any suggestions on the exhaust? I would like a little louder, but not as loud as the straight pipe design. I know there is a big sporty muffler they make for this bike...
Rear fender eliminator? Suggestions for this? I want it gone, it's ugly.
Finally- the bike has frame sliders... are these stock, or an addition? Also, it's got spools on the rear. No center stand, which is strange for me, but suggestions on a rear wheel stand for the spools to sit in? I like to have the rear wheel off the ground for service, etc.
Plus it already has the spools...
I was really surprised to find the bike with such low miles. The seller was really surprised that I had owned a 250 and wanted another, lol. I want to ride my first year incident free before I bump up to anything larger- and my first 2007 only got about 300 miles or so before I got creamed at low speed by some lady. It totaled my bike out, and left me pretty bruised. I learned my lesson, though. I can't forget that im on a bike. This incident wasn't my fault, but I should have avoided it. If I was in a car, it would have been one of those trade insurance and ride away encounters... instead it was an ambulance pleading to take me to the hospital kind of thing. A total my bike kind of thing. A $4000 hospital bill from the next day kind of thing. I walked away fine, but when all of the bruises showed up the next day I thought I better go get checked out. So- my year starts over now. =)
I am loving this bike. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am going to do all of the regular 300 mile maintenance as if it wasn't done. I don't think there is another schedule again until 3000 or 5k miles. I will check, but I do all of my own work... so I take pride in making sure things get done correctly. I'm 99% sure everything on the bike is what came from the factory (aside from the spools and the frame sliders)- the tool kit is intact and complete. Doesn't look like it was ever touched, honestly. Score! I'm so happy to be on the new bike, and look forward to being in this thread with you guys now. =)
Oh yeah- last thing. The carbs... The seller told me, and I quote... "you don't have to turn the choke off all the way, you only have to move it about 3/4 of the way back and that turns it off" Which I though was either a lie or negligence. Obviously when you move the choke all the way "off" and the engine cuts out, even when warm, something is amiss. Could be something as simple as the idle speed incorrectly adjusted, but any other ideas off the bat? I am fairly well versed with removing and cleaning the pregen carbs, but have never touched the newgen carbs. Any suggestions for checking without removing and cleaning would be most appreciated. Remember, this bike only has 1000 miles on it.

Thanks!
Andrew

Last futzed with by sickopsycho; November 17th, 2016 at 06:59 PM. Reason: Image was HUUUUUGE. Oops.
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Old November 17th, 2016, 07:04 PM   #2
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It is street legal yet? I'm going to be doing a lot of riding tomorrow and Saturday while it's near 70F.

Yes, idle speed too low or misadjusted idle mixture are possible causes of the need to keep the enrichers partly open. Do the late 250s have the extremely easy to turn idle speed knob like the pregens do?
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Old November 17th, 2016, 07:21 PM   #3
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It is street legal yet? I'm going to be doing a lot of riding tomorrow and Saturday while it's near 70F.

Yes, idle speed too low or misadjusted idle mixture are possible causes of the need to keep the enrichers partly open. Do the late 250s have the extremely easy to turn idle speed knob like the pregens do?
@Triple Jim Good to see you here, my friend! I have not played with it at all. No, I don't have plates on it yet, but I rode it home with my GF riding *close* behind me from Garner to North Raleigh. I brought all of my gear, but forgot my dang gloves. I felt like such an idiot, I had to stop at a gas station in garner and buy a pair of gardening gloves just to make it home (it was sooooo cold). All I could think of was would I even feel it if I caught a rock to my knuckle.... lol. I will be taking the title to the plate agency tomorrow to get it tagged, I need to simply move my existing insurance over to the new bike (which I can do right now) and go get it registered. I know the inspection was done in 06 of this year so that part is good to go. Just got to pay titles, taxes and tags. =) Then go to work =(
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Old November 17th, 2016, 07:27 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by sickopsycho View Post
First- it rides like a whole nother bike than the 2007! It is SOOO much stiffer. I'm not sure where the adjustment is set to on the rear shock preload- but it's a million times stiffer than the 07.
The fork springs are 48% stiffer and the rear spring is 18% stiffer, compared to the PreGen. The fork springs are still a bit soft for most people, but not horrible like the PreGen. The rear may actually be too stiff for the average rider (the little bit of actual data I've seen is conflicting about ideal numbers).


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Oh yeah- last thing. The carbs... The seller told me, and I quote... "you don't have to turn the choke off all the way, you only have to move it about 3/4 of the way back and that turns it off" Which I though was either a lie or negligence. Obviously when you move the choke all the way "off" and the engine cuts out, even when warm, something is amiss. Could be something as simple as the idle speed incorrectly adjusted, but any other ideas off the bat? I am fairly well versed with removing and cleaning the pregen carbs, but have never touched the newgen carbs. Any suggestions for checking without removing and cleaning would be most appreciated. Remember, this bike only has 1000 miles on it.
Are you saying you need to leave the choke on for it to run? If it's only got 1,000 miles in ~4 years, it likely sat for periods of time (I doubt he rode it 5 miles a week, every week). The pilot circuits are likely gummed up. No firsthand experience, but I believe the PreGen and NewGen carbs are pretty similar. I know there were some small changes made, but it shouldn't be anything drastically different.
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Old November 17th, 2016, 07:28 PM   #5
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I just look at the "view new posts.... since last visit" when I come here, so it's all the same forum to me

If you get it legal and want to ride Saturday, let me know. We could do something like meet in Butner and explore the countryside.
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Old November 17th, 2016, 07:51 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by InvisiBill View Post
The fork springs are 48% stiffer and the rear spring is 18% stiffer, compared to the PreGen. The fork springs are still a bit soft for most people, but not horrible like the PreGen. The rear may actually be too stiff for the average rider (the little bit of actual data I've seen is conflicting about ideal numbers).




Are you saying you need to leave the choke on for it to run? If it's only got 1,000 miles in ~4 years, it likely sat for periods of time (I doubt he rode it 5 miles a week, every week). The pilot circuits are likely gummed up. No firsthand experience, but I believe the PreGen and NewGen carbs are pretty similar. I know there were some small changes made, but it shouldn't be anything drastically different.
Good info- Im not sure I don't like it, but I have to admit, when I first rode it I thought the forks might have been bent because it was just handling SOOO much differently. Not like it pulled, just that it was so much stiffer I guess. I DID just now check, and the preload is set currently to the softest setting.
YES- you need the leave the choke on for it to run. But I think I found the problem. I went to look for the idle adjust screw, it was in the same place as my last bike. So I start turning it clockwise to open up the throttle and raise the idle... nothing happens. Just turns as easy as ever... but nothing is happening. I go and pull the plug thing off the holder and the entire idle adjust screw assembly comes out in my hand! So... there is no idle adjust. LOL. I'm lucky the damned thing didn't fall out on my ride home. I would have been ill if I got home and hand to buy a new (or repurpose from my old bike, more likely) idle adjustment assembly. So that long screw just came out. I tried getting it back in, but it was next to impossible without removing the front fairing, which looked a little more difficult than I was willing to do tonight. I had it in there, but turning it felt like it was starting to cross thread, and I dont want to mung it up. I'll play with it tomorrow.

Quote:
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I just look at the "view new posts.... since last visit" when I come here, so it's all the same forum to me

If you get it legal and want to ride Saturday, let me know. We could do something like meet in Butner and explore the countryside.
I would absolutely be about that! Let me get it legal tomorrow and I'll PM you in the evening and let you know my status. I have to help my family out with some errands in either the morning or the evening, but I'm pretty flexible for Saturday. =)

Last futzed with by sickopsycho; November 17th, 2016 at 07:53 PM. Reason: i has it in there? bad engrish.
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Old November 17th, 2016, 08:19 PM   #7
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I believe that's the California paint scheme (I have the same one), which has all the California baggage on the engine. One of the first things I did to mine was take all that crap off. There's a DIY thread here that I followed.
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Old November 17th, 2016, 08:42 PM   #8
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I believe that's the California paint scheme (I have the same one), which has all the California baggage on the engine. One of the first things I did to mine was take all that crap off. There's a DIY thread here that I followed.
Ahhhh. Gotcha. Yeah I'd rather have it tuned right and burning properly and remove the evaporator, etc. Just gets in the way, right? Will an inspector fail a bike for that? Do they even do emissions testing on motorcycles (other than maybe California). I live in North Carolina. It was an emissions county for cars, but bikes I thought were safety only inspections. They still are supposed to check for "tampering" with factory installed emissions components in cars and they do... But only because DMV will come through with a purposefully removed cat just to burn the inspectors and give them a ticket. Ask me how I know �� Dirty....
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Old November 17th, 2016, 09:37 PM   #9
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I would absolutely be about that! Let me get it legal tomorrow and I'll PM you in the evening and let you know my status. I have to help my family out with some errands in either the morning or the evening, but I'm pretty flexible for Saturday. =)
According to Intellicast, it'll be above 60 until 4 pm, so we should get our errands out of the way in the cooler morning, and ride in the afternoon. And I know a great little Chinese restaurant in Butner if you want to start with lunch.

If you can make it, you can be sure to reach me if you email jim at lakeserv dot net. If it doesn't work out this time, I ride year-round.
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Old November 17th, 2016, 10:32 PM   #10
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Congrats on your new bike! I hope you do get through your year without crashing any more.
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Old November 18th, 2016, 08:36 AM   #11
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Congrats! Looks nice!

As far as the idle problems go, I would get rid of any gas in the tank. With that low of miles it has been sitting around a lot, and bad gas will make it idle and run poorly. I'd add a strong fuel system cleaner like Techron Concentrate (1oz per gal) to the fresh gas (87 octane without ethanol is best). You could drain the floatbowls as well and see how the gas looks.

Look the bike over closely. It looks like the chain needs lubing and adjusting, and because it's a 2012, all the fluids should be changed (oil/filter, coolant, brake fluid). Check your tire pressure.

Plan to change the tires soon. They were most likely manufactured in 2011, and even though the tread is good they still have degraded significantly by now.

One more tip - don't set your helmet on the seat.
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Old November 18th, 2016, 10:51 AM   #12
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Congrats! Looks nice!

As far as the idle problems go, I would get rid of any gas in the tank. With that low of miles it has been sitting around a lot, and bad gas will make it idle and run poorly. I'd add a strong fuel system cleaner like Techron Concentrate (1oz per gal) to the fresh gas (87 octane without ethanol is best). You could drain the floatbowls as well and see how the gas looks.

Look the bike over closely. It looks like the chain needs lubing and adjusting, and because it's a 2012, all the fluids should be changed (oil/filter, coolant, brake fluid). Check your tire pressure.

Plan to change the tires soon. They were most likely manufactured in 2011, and even though the tread is good they still have degraded significantly by now.

One more tip - don't set your helmet on the seat.
Yeah I just went and got it plated this morning. Tire pressure check on the way revealed 11psi in the front, 9 in the rear I set them both to 32, I will check back with them this evening to see if they have changed enough to denote a leak. I have lubed the chain- there were some surface rust spots that cleaned up easily enough. Chain is actually in spec as far as stretch.
Getting rid of all the gas and running a fuel system cleaner is a GREAT idea. Will be doing that this weekend. Luckily, I have a store not far from here (like 2 miles) that sells pure gasoline (ethanol free). It's 89, or even 91 I think, but probably better than 87 with ethanol. I don't mind paying a few extra dimes a gallon, especially since I'm getting easily twice my previous mileage (from a truck).
Don't leave my helmet on the seat? Yeah, I know. Bad habit- I felt like an ass the one time I got off my bike, there were some hot girls and i toss my helmet on the seat and it fell right off onto the parking lot. This one is actually trash anyway- I have a new one otw since this one was involved in a collision. It didn't get hit hard, but hard enough. I figured something was better than nothing, if even a little. Plus it's illegal to ride in my state without one. The new one gets in tonight. It's blaze yellow. Hopefully the soccer moms will see that one better than the black one.
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Old November 18th, 2016, 10:55 AM   #13
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Congrats on your new bike! I hope you do get through your year without crashing any more.
This actually made me laugh out loud. I hope I make it the rest of my life without crashing anymore! I'll put a little more sense into my riding and see if I can make it happen. =) When I said incident free, I include accidents in that... but I guess I also meant tickets, acting like an a$$, etc. If I can't keep it under control on this bike I don't need to bump it up to a larger one. If I can't do it i'll get a dirt bike, or a quad. I think I can control myself, though. =p
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Old November 18th, 2016, 11:49 AM   #14
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This actually made me laugh out loud. I hope I make it the rest of my life without crashing anymore! I'll put a little more sense into my riding and see if I can make it happen. =) When I said incident free, I include accidents in that... but I guess I also meant tickets, acting like an a$$, etc. If I can't keep it under control on this bike I don't need to bump it up to a larger one. If I can't do it i'll get a dirt bike, or a quad. I think I can control myself, though. =p
Don't sweat it - it's part of the game.

The way I figure, even World Champions crash, so it's just par for the course when you are on 2 wheels.

Just be prepared for it every time you go out - and hope you don't need it.
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Old November 18th, 2016, 11:51 AM   #15
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I don't know of any state that does emissions testing on bikes, even in California. The extra junk is for passing whatever tests they have before being able to sell it in California. Nobody will know you took it off.
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Old November 18th, 2016, 11:52 AM   #16
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Well, ok, good point. No more incidents at all! I'll go along.

It's true that the 250 is enough to get in trouble if you're inclined, but it's also enough to get you out of bad situations if you're careful and to have fun. Everybody tells me I'll want a bigger bike but I'm not so sure. Maybe. I could see wanting a bigger bike for freeway travel.
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Old November 18th, 2016, 11:58 AM   #17
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Don't sweat it - it's part of the game.

The way I figure, even World Champions crash, so it's just par for the course when you are on 2 wheels.

Just be prepared for it every time you go out - and hope you don't need it.
True indeed, and a good point of view. Being 36, though, and having a little one... Going over the handlebars and off some lady's hood was a little scary. Dropping it myself being too enthusiastic around a curve is one thing, getting run over by a motorist is another. That's why I jumped right back on, if I dwelled too long it might make me change my mind about riding. =)

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I don't know of any state that does emissions testing on bikes, even in California. The extra junk is for passing whatever tests they have before being able to sell it in California. Nobody will know you took it off.


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Well, ok, good point. No more incidents at all! I'll go along.

It's true that the 250 is enough to get in trouble if you're inclined, but it's also enough to get you out of bad situations if you're careful and to have fun. Everybody tells me I'll want a bigger bike but I'm not so sure. Maybe. I could see wanting a bigger bike for freeway travel.
I've never ridden a larger bike. Having been on a 250 for all of a month, I can see the desire, though. My first few rides I was scared to go over 8-9k Rpms... Now I like to keep it there and above . It definitely would be nice to have more power at higher speeds, but again I guess I need to get my driving habits straight first, hense the year. =)
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Old November 18th, 2016, 01:05 PM   #18
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Old November 18th, 2016, 01:32 PM   #19
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No, the frame sliders and spools are not stock.

I have both the Pit Bull and Harbor Freight rear stands. Much prefer the Pit Bull one, the one I have it going on close to 20 years old and has worked for four bikes (did need to swap out the spool support for swingarm support when I went to the Honda).

To see if you have the CA version (which I would be surprised if you did being over in NC, but things happen), remove the left lower fairing and the black box charcoal canister will be right in front, and there will be three ports coming out of the gas tank on that side. I still have the CARB stuff installed, just bypassed the canister. (See attached image.)
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Old November 18th, 2016, 01:48 PM   #20
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True indeed, and a good point of view. Being 36, though, and having a little one... Going over the handlebars and off some lady's hood was a little scary. Dropping it myself being too enthusiastic around a curve is one thing, getting run over by a motorist is another. That's why I jumped right back on, if I dwelled too long it might make me change my mind about riding. =)
Your best defense on the street is anticipation and recognition. Recognizing a bad situation that may be developing and anticipating a drivers next move that may affect you before it does.

I've been on street bikes for over 35 years, and those are important factors that keep you out of trouble in my opinion. I've got 2 sons that ride, and I'm constantly talking to them about defensive riding and reading drivers. Get in the clear as much as possible, and stay away from drivers that have shown you they are distracted or aggressive.

Also - assume you are invisible, have plenty of following distance, look ahead, don't ride right next to a vehicle, always have good tires, always be prepared to react, and learn how to really use your front brake.

If none of that works, make sure you have good gear.

Have you taken a riding course?
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Old November 18th, 2016, 02:27 PM   #21
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No, the frame sliders and spools are not stock.

I have both the Pit Bull and Harbor Freight rear stands. Much prefer the Pit Bull one, the one I have it going on close to 20 years old and has worked for four bikes (did need to swap out the spool support for swingarm support when I went to the Honda).

To see if you have the CA version (which I would be surprised if you did being over in NC, but things happen), remove the left lower fairing and the black box charcoal canister will be right in front, and there will be three ports coming out of the gas tank on that side. I still have the CARB stuff installed, just bypassed the canister. (See attached image.)
Good info- I thought the same. If it came from California, it was shipped over because the bike doesn't have 2500 miles on it (the distance from here to there).

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Your best defense on the street is anticipation and recognition. Recognizing a bad situation that may be developing and anticipating a drivers next move that may affect you before it does.

I've been on street bikes for over 35 years, and those are important factors that keep you out of trouble in my opinion. I've got 2 sons that ride, and I'm constantly talking to them about defensive riding and reading drivers. Get in the clear as much as possible, and stay away from drivers that have shown you they are distracted or aggressive.

Also - assume you are invisible, have plenty of following distance, look ahead, don't ride right next to a vehicle, always have good tires, always be prepared to react, and learn how to really use your front brake.

If none of that works, make sure you have good gear.

Have you taken a riding course?
I have not. This is on my short list, I want to take the advanced MSF course. I was trying to find out info from DMV but nobody seems to know- I wanted to know if taking the advanced course gives me the same creds as the basic course. In my state (NC), I went and got a permit which is good for 6 months simply by taking the written test. I can convert that to a full endorsement by taking the MSF course (basic) or taking the DMV driving test. I wanted to take the advanced course, as they are $250 a pop and I already know how to operate my bike in a parking lot. The advanced course actually teaches you road maneuvers and thats what I'm more interested in. I was trying to find out if the advanced course will allow the DMV in my state to transfer the permit to a full endorsement without the driving test, like the basic course.
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Old November 18th, 2016, 03:50 PM   #22
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My daughter took the beginner's course and found that there is quite a bit of good information taught, other then just riding in the parking lot. On the other hand, a big part of the course was riding around a parking lot. If you do want to take the next course up the ladder, I don't think it would make much difference to getting your license. If they won't exempt you because it's the wrong course, all it'll make you do is take a parking lot "skills" test that's free. Also, I suspect any insurance discount you get for passing a safety course will apply for any course, not just he beginner course, but you could ask your agent to be sure.
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Old November 18th, 2016, 11:03 PM   #23
CaliGrrl
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Originally Posted by sickopsycho View Post
I guess I need to get my driving habits straight first, hense the year. =)
Good plan, I think. Better get the habits right, as quickly as possible. It's a thing I'm working on, too. I've also found that what I've seen referred to as "floodlight vision" has been really helpful in watching what other drivers will be doing in 30 seconds or so. It's watching the wide picture, with no particular focus, and certain cars will trip some alarm in my head, and then I'll watch them more closely, and that will be the car that does something weird or sketchy.
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Old December 3rd, 2016, 02:06 PM   #24
Virchy
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Oh yeah- last thing. The carbs... The seller told me, and I quote... "you don't have to turn the choke off all the way, you only have to move it about 3/4 of the way back and that turns it off" Which I though was either a lie or negligence. Obviously when you move the choke all the way "off" and the engine cuts out, even when warm, something is amiss. Could be something as simple as the idle speed incorrectly adjusted, but any other ideas off the bat? I am fairly well versed with removing and cleaning the pregen carbs, but have never touched the newgen carbs. Any suggestions for checking without removing and cleaning would be most appreciated. Remember, this bike only has 1000 miles on it.
Congrats on the new bike! Looks great! I just bought a used 2012 250 with the exact same color scheme as yours.

My bike had slightly more miles on it when I purchased it (~3500), and I had similar issues with the idle and choke. I ended up cleaning the carbs out and replacing some jets and all the seals. Everything runs really well now. There are tons of threads here that are great references that you can use to show you how to get started.
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Old December 3rd, 2016, 02:48 PM   #25
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Congrats on the new bike! Looks great! I just bought a used 2012 250 with the exact same color scheme as yours.

My bike had slightly more miles on it when I purchased it (~3500), and I had similar issues with the idle and choke. I ended up cleaning the carbs out and replacing some jets and all the seals. Everything runs really well now. There are tons of threads here that are great references that you can use to show you how to get started.
Turns out it wasn't nearly as involved as that. The previous owner had backed the idle adjust screw all the way out so that it wasn't even threaded in the carb anymore. All I had to do was run it back in and set it for ~1500 Rpms and it cranks fine even in cold weather now. Choke turns right off and it runs like a top!
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Old December 3rd, 2016, 04:01 PM   #26
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He probably thought it was the volume control.
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Old December 3rd, 2016, 04:45 PM   #27
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He probably thought it was the volume control.
Lol I thought it was the boost adjustment until I joined this forum!
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