Shimmed/Removed Snorkel, bike feels weaker? A few questions.

1LoneWolf · September 8th, 2011, 11:22 PM

Hi all, I've been reading as much information as I can in this forum, and about a week ago I decided to shim my carbs. I used 2 washers under each needle, I used the #4 washers from Radioshack and they seemed a little thick. The previous owner also rejetted the carbs (jet size unknown). I also have a full Leo Vince system installed also. I live pretty much at sea level (probably around 200 to 400 ft above). My mechanic said that the bike feels really crisp (this was before shimming the needles) and I also agreed. Now it feels less "crisp" but it runs pretty smooth. I removed the snorkel and installed a Pipercross filter also. If I'm idling, I blip the throttle slightly until it hit 2K and it drops down to 1K then go back to 1.5K where my idle speed is adjusted. Does this mean my bike is too rich? I'm thinking of removing 1 washer or both entirely... And my tachometer moves slightly at idle also, but this happened before I shimmed too. Should I sync the carbs too? One of my exhaust headers is blue and the other one isn't colored, so I'm thinking one of my cylinders is running hotter.

Sorry for all the questions ... I just want to know as much as possible and get all the answers I can for all my concerns. I ride my motorcycle everyday to work and school so i use the bike a lot. It just hit 2000 miles.

-1LoneWolf

Jiggles · September 8th, 2011, 11:24 PM

I'm no pro on this, but if you rejet I don't think you are supposed to shim as well

setasai · September 8th, 2011, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1LoneWolf

Hi all, I've been reading as much information as I can in this forum, and about a week ago I decided to shim my carbs. I used 2 washers under each needle, I used the #4 washers from Radioshack and they seemed a little thick. The previous owner also rejetted the carbs (jet size unknown). I also have a full Leo Vice system installed also. I live pretty much at sea level (probably around 200 to 400 ft above). My mechanic said that the bike feels really crisp (this was before shimming the needles) and I also agreed. Now it feels less "crisp" but it runs pretty smooth. I removed the snorkel and installed a Pipercross filter also. If I'm idling, I blip the throttle slightly until it hit 2K and it drops down to 1K then go back to 1.5K where my idle speed is adjusted. Does this mean my bike is too rich? I'm thinking of removing 1 washer or both entirely... And my tachometer moves slightly at idle also, but this happened before I shimmed too. Should I sync the carbs too? One of my exhaust headers is blue and the other one isn't colored, so I'm thinking one of my cylinders is running hotter.

Sorry for all the questions ... I just want to know as much as possible and get all the answers I can for all my concerns. I ride my motorcycle everyday to work and school so i use the bike a lot. It just hit 2000 miles.

-1LoneWolf

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_...e_your_jetting

Read this. I'm also not sure #4 is the right size washers. The washers used are M3(metric 3mm) if i'm not mistaken. Shimming the needles is part of the jetting process. If you intend on jetting, be sure you get the mains tuned and then the needles tuned and then the idle mixture screws adjusted. After all that, you should carb sync it as well. Jetting isnt a one time thing, it requires some testing and readjusting. It might be easier to go back to stock if you didnt have issues with that in the first place.

Also sounds like with the blipping that you might be running rich but it's hard to tell since it's been jetted and then you shimmed. The rejetting was necessary from the previous owner because of the full exhaust.

MikeBudd · September 9th, 2011, 03:36 AM

You could have a problem with the needles when you shimmed. If the white plastic part on the end of the spring does not fit over the washers, then it will not hold the needle in place properly causing a problem.

Other than that, i'm not too sure yet.

Goodluck

etiainen · September 9th, 2011, 04:39 AM

If the bike was rejetted and done correctly shouldn't that mean the mixture is fine already? Wouldn't shimming make things too rich?

dubojr1 · September 9th, 2011, 04:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by setasai

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_...e_your_jetting

Read this. I'm also not sure #4 is the right size washers. The washers used are M3(metric 3mm) if i'm not mistaken. Shimming the needles is part of the jetting process. If you intend on jetting, be sure you get the mains tuned and then the needles tuned and then the idle mixture screws adjusted. After all that, you should carb sync it as well. Jetting isnt a one time thing, it requires some testing and readjusting. It might be easier to go back to stock if you didnt have issues with that in the first place.

Also sounds like with the blipping that you might be running rich but it's hard to tell since it's been jetted and then you shimmed. The rejetting was necessary from the previous owner because of the full exhaust.

+10000000000

The BEST advice here.

I'd also like to ask politely that everyone please refrain from posting "I'm no expert" type comments. The OP started this thread looking for solutions to concerns he has. Jetting is absolutely not a 1 time event and wrong or misleading information will only confuse the OP more. Particular steps need to be followed in a specific order (like setasai mentioned) to get things just right. Follow those steps and you'll be good.

15dollar · September 9th, 2011, 06:42 AM

With jetting, keep in mind that you are really adjusting for three different situations. The mains control about 3/4 to full throtle. Needles/shims are for middle throtle openings and the pilots are for the idle, and small throtle openings.

I'll agree that you should get the mains sorted first, then do needles and finally the pilots.

The art has to do with what you need for each situation and have them all work together in a smooth fashion. There is no solution that someone on the internet can give. You have to do small, incremental changes to find the best combination.

dubojr1 · September 9th, 2011, 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 15dollar

With jetting, keep in mind that you are really adjusting for three different situations. The mains control about 3/4 to full throtle. Needles/shims are for middle throtle openings and the pilots are for the idle, and small throtle openings.

I'll agree that you should get the mains sorted first, then do needles and finally the pilots.

The art has to do with what you need for each situation and have them all work together in a smooth fashion. There is no solution that someone on the internet can give. You have to do small, incremental changes to find the best combination.

Well spoken. Each bike will be different anyway so what worked for someone may not work for your application, weather conditions, elevations, etc...

If you want to tackle your own jetting then you'll need to commit to a few dis-assemblies and adjustments while testing each change. BTW...make ONLY 1 change at a time and then test. Here's a picture that helps explain what happens with what and where. GL!

Nemesis · September 9th, 2011, 07:46 AM

Where in Cali do you live? If LA/OC area I can come by or you can come by and I'll help you.

1LoneWolf · September 9th, 2011, 04:49 PM

Well, I found the problem.

Apparently when I put the carb cover back on, it pinched the diaphragm. The edge is a little rolled and flattened out. It isn't torn or anything so I'm assuming it will be okay ... but it's having a hard time seating in the groove properly.

PS: I'm from the Bay Area.

Nemesis · September 9th, 2011, 05:00 PM

One trick I've learned is to freeze the diaphragm (just place in the freezer for 30 mins.).

Some times it has worked and some times no.

1LoneWolf · September 9th, 2011, 05:20 PM

Just opened up the other carb cover too ... it's torn along the edge. I tried my best to seat it properly when I was shimming it but I guess it didn't work. To be honest I regret shimming it in the first place because it didn't really do anything for me and now it's causing me a lot of headache. Diaphragms are what, $100 a piece? I'll check Bike Bandit.

setasai · September 9th, 2011, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1LoneWolf

Just opened up the other carb cover too ... it's torn along the edge. I tried my best to seat it properly when I was shimming it but I guess it didn't work. To be honest I regret shimming it in the first place because it didn't really do anything for me and now it's causing me a lot of headache. Diaphragms are what, $100 a piece? I'll check Bike Bandit.

Ouch bummers. Yea shimming isnt particularly hard but needs to done very carefully purely because there is so much tubing all over the place. Also, shimming isnt "necessary" for everybody. Did your mechanic say you needed to adjust the carbs or you just assumed you did?

Where in the bay area are you?

1LoneWolf · September 9th, 2011, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by setasai

Ouch bummers. Yea shimming isnt particularly hard but needs to done very carefully purely because there is so much tubing all over the place. Also, shimming isnt "necessary" for everybody. Did your mechanic say you needed to adjust the carbs or you just assumed you did?

Where in the bay area are you?

Yeah, I took the washers out. It ran much better without them, and I put the snorkel back too. Runs great! I'm not really worried about the diaphragms because I seated them correctly this time. The one that was torn was torn on the edge, the part on the outside of the "ridge", which would get covered by the carb cover anyways. I also synced the carbs (almost screwed that up too... they were only slightly out of sync and one little turn and fluid shot into the tube, a little water in the carbs...) ... then while syncing the carbs I ran out of gas, so I decided like a moron to siphon some gas out of the tank and pour it into the fuel hose, and my hands were already greasy and the siphon slipped out of my butter fingers and fell into the gas tank. So now I have about a 8 inch length of clear vinyl tubing stuck inside my gas tank. lol

Lately I've been really clumsy... I think it's because I stopped playing guitar after I started riding a motorcycle. I used to shred on the guitar now I play like a newb. Normally I'm not clumsy at all!

I hope that tube won't do any damage ... I took it out for a test ride and it ran great. But I think from now on I'm gonna take my bike to the shop to get everything done.

I'm in San Francisco by the way.

setasai · September 9th, 2011, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1LoneWolf

Yeah, I took the washers out. It ran much better without them, and I put the snorkel back too. Runs great! I'm not really worried about the diaphragms because I seated them correctly this time. The one that was torn was torn on the edge, the part on the outside of the "ridge", which would get covered by the carb cover anyways. I also synced the carbs (almost screwed that up too... they were only slightly out of sync and one little turn and fluid shot into the tube, a little water in the carbs...) ... then while syncing the carbs I ran out of gas, so I decided like a moron to siphon some gas out of the tank and pour it into the fuel hose, and my hands were already greasy and the siphon slipped out of my butter fingers and fell into the gas tank. So now I have about a 8 inch length of clear vinyl tubing stuck inside my gas tank. lol

Lately I've been really clumsy... I think it's because I stopped playing guitar after I started riding a motorcycle. I used to shred on the guitar now I play like a newb. Normally I'm not clumsy at all!

I hope that tube won't do any damage ... I took it out for a test ride and it ran great. But I think from now on I'm gonna take my bike to the shop to get everything done.

I'm in San Francisco by the way.

If you have another gas canister, you can drain the tank into that and then retrieve the tube. I doubt the tube would cause any issues unless it begins to deteriorate and dissolve into the gas. Just to be sure, i'd retrieve it.

You got really lucky with the diaphram. Taking the bike to the shop doesnt necessarily mean nothing will go wrong. You shouldnt be afraid to work on the bike, you just need to make sure you do your research and take each thing one at a time. Dont just assume that any mod we do will make things better.

In anycase, glad everything is in working order. It's usually a wiser idea to ride more than try to fix something that's not broke. There isnt a whole lot you can do to the little ninja that'll make it more awesome than it already is.

1LoneWolf · September 9th, 2011, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by setasai

If you have another gas canister, you can drain the tank into that and then retrieve the tube. I doubt the tube would cause any issues unless it begins to deteriorate and dissolve into the gas. Just to be sure, i'd retrieve it.

You got really lucky with the diaphram. Taking the bike to the shop doesnt necessarily mean nothing will go wrong. You shouldnt be afraid to work on the bike, you just need to make sure you do your research and take each thing one at a time. Dont just assume that any mod we do will make things better.

In anycase, glad everything is in working order. It's usually a wiser idea to ride more than try to fix something that's not broke. There isnt a whole lot you can do to the little ninja that'll make it more awesome than it already is.

Yeah, it's just fail after fail with me this whole month, making dumb mistakes over and over! I need to buy a gas can anyways, I think I'll do that.

I'm not afraid to work on the bike, in fact I think it's really fun! But I love to tinker with everything ... it's just how I am. I think I'm gonna hold off on working on it for a while and just ride. Maybe this clumsiness will pass and then I'll go back to it with a clear head.

setasai · September 9th, 2011, 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1LoneWolf

I think I'm gonna hold off on working on it for a while and just ride. Maybe this clumsiness will pass and then I'll go back to it with a clear head.

Wise decision. Ride safe! If this ends up happening, join us.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=84057

1LoneWolf · September 10th, 2011, 11:49 AM

So a little update... I commuted to work on my Ninja this morning. It worked fantastic, took it up to 100 mph for a short distance also. I noticed torque increased after I removed the washers and reinstalled the snorkel. With the washers in it felt really weak, but smoother. Power is still peaky but I like it that way. It really kicks in at 8k just like before. I'm guessing the Pipercross filter really made an improvement over the dirty old stock filter. WHen I had shimmed the carb needles I tried taking it up to top speed and only topped out at 80 mph... which made me suspect something was wrong with the diaphragms, and why I took it apart again. Removing the washers, properly seating the diaphragms, and syncing the carbs really helped.

I'll eventually replace the diaphragms... My next tune up will be at 3000 or 4000 miles, so I'll replace them then. But for now, everything is all gravy

EDIT: The way I fixed the flattened edge: I took the diaphragm out and held a lighter about 3-4 inches under it, and moved it around a little bit. It popped back into shape. Be VERY careful when doing this and keep a close eye on it. Then I popped it in the freezer for about 30 minutes and it was still a little deformed, but fit much better. I put it back in the carb and tried to seat it as best as possible, I should have used grease or something to keep the diaphragm from popping out of the groove but I didn't really need to.

LoneRonin · September 10th, 2011, 02:55 PM

I had the exact same problem as you with diaphragm...
Regarding the shimming it made a huge difference to my bike, now I don't even care for FI. I haven't touched my choke once in 3 weeks since I shimmed it, before it would need it for at least a minute.

1LoneWolf · September 10th, 2011, 03:31 PM

I might shim the carbs again someday, maybe with just 1 washer under the needles. But I really like how the bike feels right now, so it's good enough for me. if it ain't broke don't fix it.

setasai · September 10th, 2011, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1LoneWolf

I might shim the carbs again someday, maybe with just 1 washer under the needles. But I really like how the bike feels right now, so it's good enough for me. if it ain't broke don't fix it.

If you have the bike jetted already. Shimming will only mess it up. Be sure to do the jetting process from the beginning if you have a full exhaust. From the looks of it, it was jetted correctly but shimming made it too rich and thus bogged the high end.

1LoneWolf · September 10th, 2011, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by setasai

If you have the bike jetted already. Shimming will only mess it up. Be sure to do the jetting process from the beginning if you have a full exhaust. From the looks of it, it was jetted correctly but shimming made it too rich and thus bogged the high end.

Thanks! Guess I don't have to mess with it then. Which is a huge relief. It runs really well right now so I don't even wanna touch it.

And by the way, I can't make it to that meet-up, I work weekends. Wish I could.

setasai · September 10th, 2011, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1LoneWolf

Thanks! Guess I don't have to mess with it then. Which is a huge relief. It runs really well right now so I don't even wanna touch it.

And by the way, I can't make it to that meet-up, I work weekends. Wish I could.

No worries. Another time then. I'm not even sure what the plans are on the meetup anyways.

5evenz · September 10th, 2011, 08:35 PM

aight so where the hell do you get 3mm washers. Rona, home depot, burnaby and maple ridge kawasaki and home hardware all have nothing smaller than 4mm. its a conspiracy...

setasai · September 10th, 2011, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5evenz

aight so where the hell do you get 3mm washers. Rona, home depot, burnaby and maple ridge kawasaki and home hardware all have nothing smaller than 4mm. its a conspiracy...

Read the DIY shimming needles thread. It's been discussed how difficult it is to find these things. Also try radioshack and Orchard Supply Hardware.

MikeBudd · September 11th, 2011, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5evenz

aight so where the hell do you get 3mm washers. Rona, home depot, burnaby and maple ridge kawasaki and home hardware all have nothing smaller than 4mm. its a conspiracy...

It's impossible to find them in BC, I swear to god.... I went everywhere as well. Ordering them off amazon is the easiest solution I could find.

nickadolph · September 11th, 2011, 12:31 AM

If you have a fastenal store anywhere near you they are guaranteed to have them. And to clarify you can use 3mm or sae #4. I've had the #4 in there for over a year.

MikeBudd · September 11th, 2011, 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nickadolph

If you have a fastenal store anywhere near you they are guaranteed to have them. And to clarify you can use 3mm or sae #4. I've had the #4 in there for over a year.

That is definitely true

Skippii · September 11th, 2011, 02:44 AM

I've never had a problem getting 3mm washers at any Ace or True Value.
Also, I live across the street from a Fastenal store, so I see a great opportunity to make a huge profit at your expense.

nickadolph · September 11th, 2011, 05:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skippii

I've never had a problem getting 3mm washers at any Ace or True Value.
Also, I live across the street from a Fastenal store, so I see a great opportunity to make a huge profit at your expense.

about $5 for a bag of 100

LoneRonin · September 11th, 2011, 08:17 AM

you can get the washers from any hobby shop that specializes in RC cars, planes etc...

5evenz · September 11th, 2011, 10:50 AM

Hobby shop ftw. There are an awful lot of them around...

September 8th, 2011, 11:22 PM	#1
1LoneWolf ninjette.org member Name: R. Location: San Francisco, CA Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Posts: 86	Shimmed/Removed Snorkel, bike feels weaker? A few questions. Hi all, I've been reading as much information as I can in this forum, and about a week ago I decided to shim my carbs. I used 2 washers under each needle, I used the #4 washers from Radioshack and they seemed a little thick. The previous owner also rejetted the carbs (jet size unknown). I also have a full Leo Vince system installed also. I live pretty much at sea level (probably around 200 to 400 ft above). My mechanic said that the bike feels really crisp (this was before shimming the needles) and I also agreed. Now it feels less "crisp" but it runs pretty smooth. I removed the snorkel and installed a Pipercross filter also. If I'm idling, I blip the throttle slightly until it hit 2K and it drops down to 1K then go back to 1.5K where my idle speed is adjusted. Does this mean my bike is too rich? I'm thinking of removing 1 washer or both entirely... And my tachometer moves slightly at idle also, but this happened before I shimmed too. Should I sync the carbs too? One of my exhaust headers is blue and the other one isn't colored, so I'm thinking one of my cylinders is running hotter. Sorry for all the questions ... I just want to know as much as possible and get all the answers I can for all my concerns. I ride my motorcycle everyday to work and school so i use the bike a lot. It just hit 2000 miles. -1LoneWolf

September 8th, 2011, 11:24 PM	#2
Jiggles Jigglin' your Jiglets Name: Sean Location: San Jose, Ca Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 K1300S, 2013 Ninja 300, 2011 Ninja 250R, Faster than Unregistered's ninjette Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 1 MOTM - Apr '13	I'm no pro on this, but if you rejet I don't think you are supposed to shim as well __________________________________________________ If the Ninja 250 doesn't have enough power for you, then you don't know how to ride it. AFM #676 Supersports are for n00bs

September 9th, 2011, 04:49 PM	#10
1LoneWolf ninjette.org member Name: R. Location: San Francisco, CA Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Posts: 86	Well, I found the problem. Apparently when I put the carb cover back on, it pinched the diaphragm. The edge is a little rolled and flattened out. It isn't torn or anything so I'm assuming it will be okay ... but it's having a hard time seating in the groove properly. PS: I'm from the Bay Area. Last futzed with by 1LoneWolf; September 10th, 2011 at 12:30 PM.

September 11th, 2011, 02:44 AM	#29
Skippii Milkshake Drinker Name: Skippii Location: Richmond, Va Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Orange DRZ400-S, 2005 Ninja 250 & Custom Thundercunt Dirt Chopper Posts: A lot.	I've never had a problem getting 3mm washers at any Ace or True Value. Also, I live across the street from a Fastenal store, so I see a great opportunity to make a huge profit at your expense. __________________________________________________ "What a sweetheart."- ninja_sleeper to me

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September 9th, 2011, 03:36 AM	#4
MikeBudd ninjette.org guru Name: Mike Location: Vancouver, British Columbia Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): RED 2010 Ninja 250r Posts: 304	You could have a problem with the needles when you shimmed. If the white plastic part on the end of the spring does not fit over the washers, then it will not hold the needle in place properly causing a problem. Other than that, i'm not too sure yet. Goodluck

September 9th, 2011, 04:39 AM	#5
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	If the bike was rejetted and done correctly shouldn't that mean the mixture is fine already? Wouldn't shimming make things too rich?

September 9th, 2011, 06:42 AM	#7
15dollar ninjette.org member Name: Mike Location: Conroe, TX Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250 Posts: 14	With jetting, keep in mind that you are really adjusting for three different situations. The mains control about 3/4 to full throtle. Needles/shims are for middle throtle openings and the pilots are for the idle, and small throtle openings. I'll agree that you should get the mains sorted first, then do needles and finally the pilots. The art has to do with what you need for each situation and have them all work together in a smooth fashion. There is no solution that someone on the internet can give. You have to do small, incremental changes to find the best combination.

September 9th, 2011, 07:46 AM	#9
Nemesis CVMA #74 WSMC #750 Name: Nemesis Location: On the track Join Date: Oct 2009 Motorcycle(s): All of them Posts: A lot.	Where in Cali do you live? If LA/OC area I can come by or you can come by and I'll help you.

September 9th, 2011, 05:00 PM	#11
Nemesis CVMA #74 WSMC #750 Name: Nemesis Location: On the track Join Date: Oct 2009 Motorcycle(s): All of them Posts: A lot.	One trick I've learned is to freeze the diaphragm (just place in the freezer for 30 mins.). Some times it has worked and some times no.

September 9th, 2011, 05:20 PM	#12
1LoneWolf ninjette.org member Name: R. Location: San Francisco, CA Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Posts: 86	Just opened up the other carb cover too ... it's torn along the edge. I tried my best to seat it properly when I was shimming it but I guess it didn't work. To be honest I regret shimming it in the first place because it didn't really do anything for me and now it's causing me a lot of headache. Diaphragms are what, $100 a piece? I'll check Bike Bandit.

September 10th, 2011, 11:49 AM	#18
1LoneWolf ninjette.org member Name: R. Location: San Francisco, CA Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Posts: 86	So a little update... I commuted to work on my Ninja this morning. It worked fantastic, took it up to 100 mph for a short distance also. I noticed torque increased after I removed the washers and reinstalled the snorkel. With the washers in it felt really weak, but smoother. Power is still peaky but I like it that way. It really kicks in at 8k just like before. I'm guessing the Pipercross filter really made an improvement over the dirty old stock filter. WHen I had shimmed the carb needles I tried taking it up to top speed and only topped out at 80 mph... which made me suspect something was wrong with the diaphragms, and why I took it apart again. Removing the washers, properly seating the diaphragms, and syncing the carbs really helped. I'll eventually replace the diaphragms... My next tune up will be at 3000 or 4000 miles, so I'll replace them then. But for now, everything is all gravy EDIT: The way I fixed the flattened edge: I took the diaphragm out and held a lighter about 3-4 inches under it, and moved it around a little bit. It popped back into shape. Be VERY careful when doing this and keep a close eye on it. Then I popped it in the freezer for about 30 minutes and it was still a little deformed, but fit much better. I put it back in the carb and tried to seat it as best as possible, I should have used grease or something to keep the diaphragm from popping out of the groove but I didn't really need to.

September 10th, 2011, 02:55 PM	#19
LoneRonin ninjette.org sage Name: Jason Location: Mississauga Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250r Posts: 634	I had the exact same problem as you with diaphragm... Regarding the shimming it made a huge difference to my bike, now I don't even care for FI. I haven't touched my choke once in 3 weeks since I shimmed it, before it would need it for at least a minute.

September 10th, 2011, 03:31 PM	#20
1LoneWolf ninjette.org member Name: R. Location: San Francisco, CA Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Posts: 86	I might shim the carbs again someday, maybe with just 1 washer under the needles. But I really like how the bike feels right now, so it's good enough for me. if it ain't broke don't fix it.

September 10th, 2011, 08:35 PM	#24
5evenz ninjette.org member Name: Sev Location: Vancouver Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 09' 250r Thunder Blue Posts: 165	aight so where the hell do you get 3mm washers. Rona, home depot, burnaby and maple ridge kawasaki and home hardware all have nothing smaller than 4mm. its a conspiracy...

September 11th, 2011, 12:31 AM	#27
nickadolph ninjette.org member Name: nick Location: Twin Cities, MN Join Date: Jun 2010 Motorcycle(s): ninja 250 Posts: 168	If you have a fastenal store anywhere near you they are guaranteed to have them. And to clarify you can use 3mm or sae #4. I've had the #4 in there for over a year.

September 11th, 2011, 08:17 AM	#31
LoneRonin ninjette.org sage Name: Jason Location: Mississauga Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250r Posts: 634	you can get the washers from any hobby shop that specializes in RC cars, planes etc...

September 11th, 2011, 10:50 AM	#32
5evenz ninjette.org member Name: Sev Location: Vancouver Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 09' 250r Thunder Blue Posts: 165	Hobby shop ftw. There are an awful lot of them around...