2006 ninja 250r not getting spark

[Kzager]

Hi guys so I’m relatively new to motorcycles and I just bought a 06 ninja 250r and it’s not getting spark I have new spark plugs and new coils and wires I have a new cdi box I’ve tested my pickup coil and it’s putting out bout 4 volts of electricity when I crank the bike I’m wondering if it could be the stator but I’m not sure it’s getting fuel just not spark any advice would be greatly appreciated

[Triple Jim]

If the battery is good and it's charged, the problem isn't the stator. Is the ignition switch OEM or an aftermarket replacement?

Welcome to the board, Keagan!

[Kzager]

The battery is good it’s sending 12 volts and my ignition switch looks like its the oem one so I don’t think it would be a 100 ohm resistor

[Triple Jim]

You need to be sure. We see this problem here on a regular basis. Does the ignition key also work the seat lock?

[Kzager]

How exactly would I be sure it’s not the oem one? And yes it does work the seat lock

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by Kzager

How exactly would I be sure it’s not the oem one? And yes it does work the seat lock

That's a good sign.

Have you checked to see that 12v is getting to the TCI unit? (ignitor)

Are the coils getting 12v to the positive terminals when the ignition switch is on?

[Kzager]

So I haven’t checked to see if there’s 12v getting to the tci box I’m not quite sure how I would check that.

I am however getting 12v to the positive terminal on the coils with the ignition switch on.

[Triple Jim]

According to the schematic, the brown/black wire should have 12v power on it when everything is "on".

[Kzager]

Okay I just got to work so I will check when I get home and post an update

[Triple Jim]

Also see if you can get the meter probe on the grey wire at or near the ignitor and measure the voltage with the ignition switch on.

[Kzager]

Okay so the brown/black wire measured 12v

I’m not sure which grey wire you are referring to but the one I found that goes into the cdi box reads 8v but I’m not sure if that’s the correct wire

[Triple Jim]

Those both sound good. Take a look at the coil voltage on their negative terminals (ignitor side) while cranking, and see if it fluctuates as the ignitor intermittently grounds that terminal.

[Kzager]

Hi sorry about the delayed response

So I tested the coils today and they do fluctuate and I’m getting a constant 12v to the positive side

[Kzager]

Another question I was wondering is if it would be a bad ground possibly?

I’m just not sure what or where a ground that would be messing everything up could be

[Triple Jim]

How did you determine that you don't have spark?

[Kzager]

So I when I bought the bike it wouldn’t turn on I figured out it was hydrolocked with fuel so I cleaned the whole system out and redid the fluids to make sure everything was good I also replaced the starter but when I did the starter I think it grounded out somewhere because there was a spark

After the starter sparked I put everything back together so it wouldn’t happen again and went on my merry,well after I got everything relubed and put back together I went to start the bike and nothing it would crank and all electronics would come on but it’s not even try to start

So I pulled the pugs and grounded them to the block and there was no arc I tried a screw driver and no shock so I took of the ground on the end of the coils and put a manual ground to the block and tapped the coil and I got an arc

Very pertinent information I probably should have stated earlier sorry

[Triple Jim]

Yes, that would have been nice to know.

You said that the voltage at the negative terminals of the coils fluctuates when cranking, which is evidence that the ignitor may be doing its job. You also said that manually grounding the negative terminal of a coil produced a spark in a spark plug that's grounded to the engine. These two things seem to contradict.

You also said that the ignitor is getting 12v power and has 8 volts on the grey wire, so it should be working. You can verify that the ignitor's black/yellow wire is grounded by measuring the resistance from it to somewhere on the frame, or the negative battery terminal, but if the coils were seeing the intermittent ground from the ignitor, I imagine that wire is indeed grounded.

At this point I'm out of guesses. It would be nice if you could try a different ignitor.

[Kzager]

Okay I will test that yellow/black wire im right with you I’ve been trying to figure it out for a couple weeks now and nothing so I’m out of guesses as well

Might just have to take it into the shop

Thank you so much for your help!

[Kzager]

Also I did buy a new cdi bax but it just did the same thing

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

You need to be sure. We see this problem here on a regular basis. Does the ignition key also work the seat lock?

I think they are now selling aftermarket ignition "kits" with the additional locks included, so one key works everything.

What are the symptoms of an aftermarket ignition that lacks the proper resistor?

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by jkv45

What are the symptoms of an aftermarket ignition that lacks the proper resistor?

As I understand it, the ignitor won't ground the coils to make sparks if the resistor is not present. But Kzager said he measured a fluctuating voltage on the negative coil terminals when cranking, indicating that the ignitor is trying to make sparks.

This is why I can't think of anything else to try. From what he described, the coils work and the ignitor is doing its job, and a second ignitor doesn't change anything. Of course if they're used parts, both ignitors could be bad.